Climbing Cotopaxi Volcano (5897m)

Name and Meaning: The name “Cotopaxi” is believed to derive from the Quechua words “coto” (neck) and “paxi” (moon), referring to the crater that resembles a crescent moon. It symbolizes the volcano’s distinctive features and its cultural significance as a sacred mountain, honored by the local Andean people long before the Inca invasion.

Climbing Conditions: Climbing Cotopaxi is one of the most popular expeditions in Ecuador. The climb does not require prior technical experience, but climbers need to be in good physical condition and acclimatized to high altitudes (above 4,000-5,000 meters). The climb is typically done at night for safety reasons, with each pair of climbers accompanied by a certified mountain guide.

Current Status and Reopening: Cotopaxi was closed to climbers from October 2022 to the beginning of 2024 due to ongoing volcanic activity. It has since reopened, allowing climbers to once again ascend this majestic volcano. However, the summit and its snowy slopes have undergone significant changes. The once predominantly snowy summit is now partly covered in ice and mud, reflecting the dynamic nature of this active volcano.

Incredible Views: The ascent offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Climbers can see neighboring volcanoes such as Antisana, Ilinizas, Cayambe, and Chimborazo. On clear nights, the illuminated city of Quito can be seen in the background, adding to the mesmerizing experience.

Active Volcano: Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It has erupted 87 times, with the most recent activity beginning on October 21, 2022. The Geophysical Institute of Ecuador reported around 8,000 earthquakes between October 2022 and February 2023, highlighting the volcano’s ongoing activity.

Historic Eruptions: Cotopaxi’s most violent eruptions occurred in 1742, 1744, 1768, and 1877. The 1877 eruption caused lahars (mudflows) that traveled over 100 kilometers, destroying the town of Latacunga. These historic eruptions have shaped the surrounding landscape, creating numerous valleys formed by lahars.

Preparation for Climbers: Cotopaxi serves as a preparation ground for climbers aiming to ascend higher peaks like Chimborazo. The climb to Cotopaxi’s summit is graded as mildly difficult, requiring basic snow and ice techniques. Climbers must use crampons and ice axes to navigate the icy slopes.

Sacred Mountain: The indigenous people revered Cotopaxi as a rain sender and a place where gods lived. Its summit was considered sacred, and it played a significant role in local mythology and cultural practices.

Protected Ecosystem: Cotopaxi is located within the Cotopaxi National Park, a protected area that preserves the unique ecosystem and habitat of native Andean animals. The park’s highland plain starts at about 3,800 meters, with the glacier beginning at 5,000 meters.

Mountain Features: Cotopaxi has an almost symmetrical cone that rises from its base, with a width of about 23 kilometers. Its crater is 800 meters by 550 meters wide and 250 meters deep, consisting of two concentric rims. The outer rim is partly snow-free and irregular in shape, while the inner crater is covered with ice cornices.

Climbing History: The first non-Spanish European attempt to climb Cotopaxi was by Alexander von Humboldt in 1802, though he only reached 4,500 meters. The first successful ascent was made by Wilhelm Reiss and Angel Escobar in 1872. Since then, Cotopaxi has become a major draw for climbers worldwide.

Recent Activity: In addition to the ongoing eruption since October 2022, Cotopaxi showed significant activity in 2015, with phreatic eruptions and increased sulfur dioxide emissions. This recent activity serves as a reminder of the volcano’s dynamic nature and the potential risks it poses to nearby populations.